Cho Oyu is known for being technically straightforward among the 8000m peaks, but its high altitude still poses a serious challenge that demands careful preparation and a high level of fitness.
The mountain’s name, “Cho Oyu,” means ‘Goddess of Turquoise,’ which is derived from the way its shadows appear with a turquoise hue in the light of the setting sun when viewed from Tibet.
The route you’re describing is the elegant North West face of Cho Oyu. This route involves ascending fairly easy angled 30-degree snow slopes, with one steep serac barrier to negotiate at 6800m.
Fixed lines are used on steeper sections to ensure safety. The expedition begins with acclimatization walks in Nylam and Tingri before reaching the Chinese Base Camp. From there, the ascent progresses to Base Camp at 5700m, with an Intermediate Camp at around 5400m for further acclimatization.
The Cho Oyu mountain expedition setup is as follows:
- Camp 1 (6400m): This camp is reached in 4-6 hours from the Chinese Base Camp. It involves traversing the Gyabrag Glacier and ascending a steep scree to a broad snow shoulder, where the first high camp is located.
- Camp 2 (7100m): From Camp 1, climbers follow the snow ridge to encounter a steep 50-meter ice wall, which presents the most challenging climbing section on this route. Fixed ropes are used to ensure safety during this ascent.
- Camp 3 (7500m): Camp 3 is reached in around four hours from Camp 2. At this altitude, climbers often feel the tremendous effort required to gain further height due to the thin air.
- Summit Day: The final push to the summit takes 6-9 hours from Camp 3. The route involves moderately easy snow and rock sections. At this point, the only obstacles to conquering the summit are weather conditions and the effects of altitude.
Conquering Cho Oyu’s grand summit plateau at 8000 m is undoubtedly a significant accomplishment and requires a combination of mountaineering skills, physical endurance, and mental resilience. It’s a challenging expedition that showcases the breathtaking beauty and formidable nature of the world’s highest peaks.
