Lhotse Expedition 8383m

In 1956, a Swiss expedition achieved a historic conquest of Mt. Lhotse. This mountain’s lower summit, known as Mount Lhotse Shar at 8383m, is often recognized as a separate 8000m peak.

It stands in close proximity to the Everest massif, situated just south of Everest itself.

The primary route for ascending Mt. Lhotse is connected to Everest’s South Col.

Interestingly, even as the excitement around conquering Mount Everest grew, Mt. Lhotse remained the highest unclimbed peak worldwide by 1955.

The inaugural endeavor to ascend Mt. Lhotse took place in 1955 with an international team, which included Erwin Schneider.

Schneider played a pivotal role in creating top-tier “Schneider maps of the Everest region.”

Subsequently, the same Swiss team that achieved the second ascent of Everest in 1956 also secured the first ascent of Mt. Lhotse peak, starting from a camp below the South Col.

In 1970, an Austrian expedition achieved the initial ascent of Mount Lhotse Shar. Over the years, various routes on the main peak were attempted by Japanese, South Koreans, and Germans.

Both Polish and Italian climbers also reached the summit before German expeditions achieved success once again in 1977.

Trip Facts

Country: Nepal
Duration: 55 Days
Minimum Altitude: 1,300 m / 4,265 ft (Kathmandu)
Maximum Altitude: 8,383 m / 27,503 ft (Summit of Mount Lhotse)
Walking Per Day: Approximately 4–7 hours (depending on altitude and terrain)
Nature: Trekking, High-Altitude Mountaineering & Camping Expedition
Grade: Extremely Challenging / Expedition Level
Best Season: April–May (Spring) and September–October (Autumn)

Itinerary

Day 1

Arrival in Kathmandu & Hotel Transfer
Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, our representative welcomes you and transfers you to your hotel. The rest of the day is free to relax and recover from your journey.

Day 2

Kathmandu (Preparation & Rest)
This day is reserved for rest, sightseeing, and final personal preparations. You may explore the cultural heritage of Kathmandu Valley or complete last-minute shopping for expedition gear.

Day 3

Kathmandu (Expedition Preparation)
Today is dedicated to expedition briefings, gear inspection, and completing official documentation. Final logistics are arranged with the climbing team and support staff to ensure readiness for the journey ahead.

Day 4

Fly to Lukla (2,800 m) & Trek to Phakding (2,640 m)
Transfer to the airport for an early morning flight to Lukla, offering breathtaking Himalayan views. After arrival, begin the trek to Phakding along the Dudh Koshi River. Overnight at Himalayan Chain Resort.

Day 5

Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,446 m)
The trail follows forested paths and crosses suspension bridges before ascending to Namche Bazaar, the vibrant hub of the Khumbu region. Overnight in a comfortable lodge.

Day 6

Namche Bazaar to Khumjung (3,790 m)
A scenic trek leads to the traditional Sherpa village of Khumjung, passing monasteries and offering spectacular views of Everest and surrounding peaks. Overnight at Himalayan Chain Resort.

Day 7

Acclimatization Day in Khumjung
A full day is dedicated to acclimatization. Optional short hikes to nearby viewpoints help your body adjust to the altitude. The afternoon is free for rest and exploration.

Day 8

Khumjung to Tengboche Monastery (3,867 m)
The trail continues through rhododendron forests to Tengboche, home to the famous monastery. Enjoy panoramic mountain views and a peaceful spiritual atmosphere. Overnight in a lodge.

Day 9

Tengboche to Dingboche (4,347 m)
Descending through alpine forests and crossing open valleys, the route leads to Dingboche, an important acclimatization stop in the upper Khumbu. Overnight in a lodge.

Day 10

Dingboche to Lobuche (4,900 m)
The trek proceeds along glacial moraines and past memorials dedicated to climbers. The landscape becomes increasingly rugged as you approach Lobuche. Overnight at Himalayan Chain Resort.

Day 11

Trek to Everest Base Camp (5,357 m)
A memorable trek alongside the Khumbu Glacier brings you to Everest Base Camp, which also serves as the base for the Lhotse expedition. Settle into camp and prepare for the climbing phase.

Day 12-47

Climbing Period
This extended period is devoted to acclimatization rotations, establishing higher camps, fixing ropes, and waiting for favorable weather. Climbers make several ascents and descents between camps before attempting the summit of Lhotse (8,383 m) when conditions allow.

Day 48

Cleaning Up Base Camp
After the summit phase, the team dismantles camps, collects waste, and ensures Base Camp is left clean and environmentally responsible in accordance with expedition guidelines.

Day 49

Base Camp to Dingboche
Begin the descent from Base Camp, trekking back to Dingboche through familiar high-altitude landscapes. Overnight in a lodge.

Day 50

Dingboche to Khumjung
Continue descending to Khumjung, returning to greener valleys and lower altitude. Overnight at Himalayan Chain Resort.

Day 51

Khumjung to Phakding
Trek downhill through Namche Bazaar and along the Dudh Koshi River to Phakding. Overnight at Himalayan Chain Resort.

Day 52

Phakding to Lukla
The final trekking day leads back to Lukla, where the expedition began. Overnight in a lodge and celebrate the successful completion of the expedition.

Day 53

Fly to Kathmandu & Hotel Transfer
An early morning flight returns you to Kathmandu. After hotel transfer, the remainder of the day is free for rest, shopping, or sightseeing.

Day 54

Kathmandu (Free Day)
A leisure day in Kathmandu for relaxation, souvenir shopping, or optional cultural tours. Farewell dinner with the expedition team in the evening.

Day 55

Final Departure from Kathmandu
After breakfast, you are transferred to the international airport for your onward journey, concluding the Lhotse Expedition.

INCLUDES

  • Airport-Hotel-Airport transport
  • Half day sightseeing in Kathmandu
  • 4 nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on BB basis
  • Domestic flights
  • Excess baggage charges
  • Climbing permit fees
  • Porters and Yaks for loads to & from Basecamp
  • Equipment allowance and insurance for Liaison officer
  • Personal climbing Sherpa with wages/equipment allowance/ insurance/high-camp load ferry bonus
  • Cook and cook boys with equipment allowance, wages and insurance
  • Basecamp tents and mattresses
  • Dining, Kitchen and Shower tents and other camping equipment
  • Fresh and organic food and beverages at Base Camp and high altitude food (individual packets)
  • EPI gases with burners for high camps
  • Walkie-talkie and permit fee
  • Satellite phone for the emergency purpose (Subject to charges)
  • Solar panel/Generator with accessories at base camp for power
  • Necessary climbing gear (excludes personal gear)
  • Oxygen cylinders with masks and regulators
  • Insurance of local team members
  • Rope fixing fee
  • Ice fall fee
  • Accommodation and meals at tea houses to and from base camp

EXCLUDES

  • Travel insurance (Should cover medical and high-altitude evacuation costs)
  • International air tickets
  • Nepal entry visa and Visa fee
  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Cost of emergency evacuation
  • Personal expenses
  • Summit bonus for climbing sherpa ($1500 min)
  • Tips (for basecamp and high camp staff)

PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE/FITNESS

While not excessively technical, this climb demands a robust physical condition to endure extended days and exposed segments. It is an excellent choice for seasoned climbers aiming to conquer the peak or accumulate expertise for future, more ambitious summits. Proficiency in Alpine PD+/AD routes or Scottish grade 1/ll winter routes, along with prior exposure to altitudes exceeding 4800m, is recommended.

A TYPICAL TREKKING DAY

Lunch is savored in scenic spots along the trail, leading to arrival at the overnight camp by mid-afternoon. This affords time for rest, exploration, and a satisfying three-course dinner. The culinary expertise of locals in remote settings is truly remarkable.

The day typically begins around 7 am, with preparations and breakfast preceding departure during the cooler morning hours. The trek proceeds at a relaxed pace, allowing for the enjoyment of the landscape, photography, interactions with locals, and adequate hydration.

WEATHER CONDITIONS

Conditions are dominated by post and pre-monsoon weather from October to mid-December. April and May offer favorable, dry, and stable conditions. Warm days prevail in valleys (20-30°C), while colder temperatures, potentially reaching minus 30°C, are encountered at higher elevations such as Baruntse. Essential items include a highly insulated sleeping bag (-30°C), expedition-grade down jacket, and top-quality down mittens.

CATERING ARRANGEMENTS

Despite the appetite suppression brought on by altitude, food on the trek and at Base Camp remains delectable. Breakfast options encompass porridge, cereal, eggs, bread/chapattis, and spreads.

Lunch consists of juice and a diverse array of choices. Dinners commence with soup, followed by main courses such as Dal Bhat, yak stew, and Western cuisine. Tempting desserts like apple pie, cake, and custard follow suit. During the mountain phase, dehydrated meals are supplemented with snacks.

IMPORTANT – TERMS AND CONDITIONS

Delays due to weather are a possibility for Lukla flights. Patience is essential, and for extended delays, optional helicopter flights are available at an additional cost.

MISSED INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

Our itineraries incorporate an extra day for adverse weather conditions. If delays persist beyond this period, there is provision for rebooking international flights, although extra charges may apply. Such changes depend on availability and ticket class and could involve upgrades and flexibility in return dates. Additional payments will be arranged in Kathmandu, where credit card payments are accepted.

RESPONSIBLE TOURISM

We prioritize local employment beyond farming, efficient energy consumption, and responsible waste disposal. We suggest using bowls or wet wipes for washing. Properly dispose of non-burnable items in Kathmandu. Opt for iodine tablets and refillable bottles to minimize plastic waste.

ALTITUDE

Our itineraries incorporate ample acclimatization time. Progressing slowly, staying hydrated, and adhering to the leader’s guidance are the key strategies to prevent altitude-related issues.

USEFUL TIPS

As a precaution in case of luggage loss, consider wearing your boots on the plane. Comfortable and well-worn boots can be challenging to replace quickly.

EQUIPMENT

A detailed equipment list will be provided upon booking. Sleeping bags and down jackets are available for rental or purchase.

BAGGAGE

Travel light, considering the airline’s 20kg limit and 15kg allowance for the Lukla flight. Since you’ll be wearing your boots and one trekking outfit, you can leave any excess baggage at the hotel.

VISAS AND PERMITS

Visas are obtainable upon arrival for US/UK citizens and many EU nationals. Verify embassy requirements. Ensure your passport remains valid for six months after the trip’s conclusion.

LOCAL EXPENSES

Most meals are covered; personal expenses include beverages and meals not provided by lodges.

CURRENCY

The local currency is the Nepalese Rupee. UK Sterling, Euros, and USD are exchangeable in Kathmandu. ATMs are accessible in the city.

TIPPING

Tipping is customary and seamlessly integrated into daily customs. Generally, collective tips are provided to our local staff. Contributing around 1000 rupees for the Puja or mountain blessing is customary and holds significance in Himalayan climbing culture.

EXTENSIONS

Everest Flight

Embark on an awe-inspiring early morning flight for breathtaking views of Everest.

Chitwan Wildlife Safari (plus 4 days)

Conclude your trek with a three-day wildlife safari featuring a jeep safari, jungle exploration, river canoeing, and an elephant ride. This experience is enhanced by a cultural program aimed at spotting the renowned Bengal tiger and rhino.